Stormy Days

Some of my friends think I'm strange because I'll surf regardless of the weather conditions. I go out on flat days and just paddle around "Lake Pacific". Beats going straight to work! I go out on days when the surf is moderate. I go out on killer big days. I even go out when it's stormy. Athough there is not much ride-able, I like surfing when it’s stormy.

I remember one stormy day when there was a freight train north current running. I paddled out by the power plant in Carlsbad and ten or fifteen minutes later, I got out of the water down past Palomar Airport Road! I don't recall catching much of anything either, but I had fun! But the mile walk back on the pavement left my feet sore for days.

Storm surge is usually pretty poor form, although there’s an occasional ride if you can grab it at just the right place and time. I still love being out there, nonetheless, because I feel like I'm right in the middle of God's activity. I imagine Him just tossing those big swells up and down like a cosmic juggler of mountains, and I'm right there bobbing up and down along with them.

My God is Awesome!