Before I was a surfer, I would observe with some puzzlement friends who surfed. I could tell that surfing was something compelling for them, but at the time I just didn't "get it". Now that I have been a wave rider for many years, I finally do! And if you're not a surfer yet, I hope that as you read my musings, you will be so intrigued that you'll come on out and see what all the excitement is about.

This book is also written from a blatantly Christian perspective. In case you aren't a Christian yet, don't let that put you off either: if you and I are both surfers, we share a common bond in spite of our different religious philosophies.

I hope that you fellow surfers will identify with and enjoy some of my observations, because I know that you share the experience, that you do "get it". And if you aren't a Christian yet, Who knows? Perhaps someday you too may come to know that friend of mine who invented the ocean: Jesus Christ. When that day comes, you will finally "get it" too.