The contour of the coastline in front of the power plant helps a lot on a big day. Instead of great marching walls, the waves are separated nicely into peaks and valleys and so I have a chance to slip, left and right, in between them and mostly avoid getting dumped on. But the current is strong, and it takes a while to get outside.

Finally I make it outside. I am about five houses south of the power plant and a long ways from shore. The lineup is way overcrowded. I wonder to myself, Where in the world are all these guys from? It's just not right! After all, I'm loyal, I'm out here every day rain or shine; why should I have to share this place with all these strangers today?

I hang to the north end of the lineup, struggling to avoid getting run over as surfers take off on one choice wave after another. The waves look like pictures I’ve seen of hollow Hawaiian bowls, thick and well contoured with great almost vertical drops transitioning cleanly to beautiful hollow shoulders.

After waiting a long time, I begin to wonder if I’ll even get one of the leftovers. Then I see it. Here comes one, north of the pack. Am I positioned right? I turn and start to paddle, hoping for the best. Looking back over my shoulder, I see the wave closing in on me fast. The others are out of position for this one, and either go around or over the top. My moment has arrived.

I am suddenly lifted up and thrust forward. I stop kicking and concentrate on keeping control as I make the drop. My position could not be much better; I drop cleanly to the shoulder and crank in a bottom turn to the left, rising back up as the shoulder lifts me.

A couple of surfers, paddling back out, cross in front of me as they watch me ride in the sweet spot and shout words of encouragement. I steer right to avoid them, and as they slide up and over the oncoming lip I cut back to the left and regain my favored place on the shoulder.

I can feel the power of the wave driving me on. There is a magnificent balance between the force of gravity drawing me downward, ever faster, and the thrust of the wave lifting me upward and forward. Without sectioning, the wave connects on a beautiful, long diagonal. I am in the driver’s seat, piloting my vessel towards shore.

Finally, after a long time, the wave closes out and I bail over the top right in front of the smokestack. Hallelujah! I will never forget this wonderful ride! God is good!