Killer big surf today... I battled my way outside in front of the power plant and had lots of trouble getting the measure of the waves. I wound up being caught inside several times and getting worked repeatedly.

When I finally started moving on a big right ( maybe 1-1/2 head high ) I was lined up good and moving at a good clip. I can tell when I'm moving fast because my board starts to sing to me. I was taking my time getting up, and just as I tried to get to my feet I hit a rather large bump coming up the face and got thrown off... . It would have been a really nice ride if I had made it!

As it turned out, I only got one very short ride and decided to come in on it. Overall, I got my exercise :) and was glad to get out alive.

Maybe tomorrow will be cleaner?