September 2nd - once

September 3rd - once

September 7th - three times

September 8th - lost count, 2 longer rides

September 16th - Terramar! 2 good rides, one straight in, one parallel.

September 17th - Terramar! I am a surfer! The longest ride of my life, @ 100 yards parallel!

September 20th - Terramar. Two good rides, second one bumpy but I held on.

September 21st - Terramar - tallest wave yet, good long parallel ride. Two other good rides, then down to Old Man's and one last good sized ride.

11-5-99

By the way, I have now learned how to surf standing up on a 6'8" board given to me by a friend - and so, in the future you may refer to me as "Surfer Dude" and/or "Big Kahuna", or just "Big" for short if you like. I rip! Standing up is an incredible kick!

You can read my new book about surfing (not completely up-to-date, but fairly substantive) on my website at http://creator.cjb.net in the sports section.

11-8-99

The surf was very nice today, I was riding high on a 5-foot wave... wish you could see it.

12-2-99

PS I surfed on a short board for the first time yesterday... pretty amazing...

12-7-99

I think I told you that I have learned how to stand up on a surfboard.It is quite entertaining.

Since I saw you, I have tried out a few different kinds of surfboards. I surprised myself by being able to stand up on what I call a "potatoe chip" - that is, one of those very small, short, and curvy boards with a sharp point on it. It is really wobbly!

2-9-00

The surf was much fun this morning! :)

5-2-00

How is your family doing? I hope you'll get those fine kids of yours out on the surfboard sometime soon. Can't start them too young! :)

I've been very glad to get back in the ocean. I somehow injured my shoulder just days before coming home, and was bummed out not to be able to surf last week; however, my shoulder began to heal much faster than I was expecting and I took my older grandson Chris to the beach Saturday afternoon. I got him going on the boogie board and I went out and caught a couple of waves on the surfboard. I guess it's like riding a bicycle -- once you've learned, you don't forget.

Of course, I've been out yesterday and this morning before work; had some nice rides. Great to be back!

7-8-00

Last Saturday morning while I was out surfing I had somewhat of an accident. The point of my surfboard struck me a crushing blow under my left eye. I am recovering well; but on Monday we were struck with a far more crushing blow regarding our grandson Skylar.

8-7-00

Did you get out surfing last Tuesday? It was terrific!

I had the whole range of rides from waist high to overhead.

Some sets were so big that I was watching guys surfing in front of overhead foam balls.

If you didn't get out -- well, you know what they say --you snooze, you lose!

I'm still hoping that you show up some morning and join me for some waves.

8-9-00

Surf report for today (Wednesday): No sign of the swell yet when I got there this morning, still pretty small (but I had fun - somehow I always do). As I was showering and getting ready to leave, I saw a set or two that looked like it could be the fore-runner of a swell. Maybe manana!

9-28-00

Today the ocean was glassy smooth and bathtub warm. The interval between sets was large at times, and the tide was a bit on the high side, but some of the rides were wonderful. There were interesting reflections off of the sea wall, creating some challenging roller coaster rides.

Often, as I'm bobbing around waiting for a wave, I wonder to myself, "Where are you?". I just never seem to see you out there. Of course, in general, the last two weeks have been pretty small; but the water is almost tropical! and the waves can only pick up. In my humble opinion, you are missing out.

Hope you are doing well. Drop a line. Better yet, drop in at the shore some morning soon with your swimsuit and surfboard.

9-29-00

> That wave is really fun, but slightly crowded at times.

SLIGHTLY crowded???? Wow, I generally avoid Tamarack because of the crowd... but maybe now that summer is over it will be a little better.

> The water is so clear and warm, yep, almost like Hawaii. Do you usually go out at Tierramar(sp.)?

Lately I've been spending a lot of time just south of Terramar... there is a lot that was for sale there (now they are bulldozing it) and a relatively new set of concrete steps going down to the beach. I often park above there and, depending on crowd and conditions, sometimes paddle north as far as Terramar. Terramar has a really nice friendly wave (especially the left) and just south of there is a really nice, long-running right-hand wave.

>What time are you out surfing?

That varies somewhat... but generally between 9 or 9:30 and 11 or 11:30...

> I should meet up with you in the morning since there are less people in the morning and usually no wind. Or I'll let you know when I go out at lunch.

Mornings usually are nicer and less wind... do you remember what my beater surf van looks like? If you spot my van, you know I'm not too far away. If you plan a lunchtime outing, let me know (if you can) the day before, or otherwise I'll be getting out about when you're getting in...

> Hope you are doing well and I'm really glad to hear from you. Heard there's suppose to be a west swell. North shore is getting solid 8 ft waves.

I love it when there are swell rumors... I heard from a guy this morning that we can expect it on Sunday and/or Monday... I'll be out again God willing on Monday morning, hoping for the best. Today was a little bigger than yesterday, but somewhat choppier and of course very high tide so there were mucho reflections... I had some fun bouncy bouncy rides that were a challenge keeping my feet under me.

Thanks for writing. Hope your family is doing well, and I hope to see you out there sometime. What kind of board are you riding these days? I'm still on the yellow and green $10 banana!

10-2-00

Hi Knarleydog,

It was nice to meet you and talk to you at the beach this morning. Thanks for the tips on barrel riding, I hope I get to put them to good use one day soon.

You can drop me a line anytime at: creator@consultant.com and let me know how your world travels are going. You can also visit my website and read my surfing book (in progress) at:

http://creator.cjb.net

Take care,

-Dann

10-3-00

Well, I haven't seen you out there yet this week.... so here's the surf report...

Yesterday was fun. :)

Today was as much or more fun. :)

Of course, today had some bigger sets. But that was OK because it was mostly glassy. Which wasn't too bad, because there was hardly anybody out. But then the waves were pretty well lined up and fast. But that was OK because the water was still nice and warm.... which I didn't mind, because it was so pretty out there, with almost tropical colors. That would have been OK, but I was so busy catching good waves that I hardly had time to look! I guess that was because the tide was about right and not changing much, just enough to make it interesting.

But who am I to complain? :) :) :)

Still hoping to see you out there sometime! :)

10-4-00

Today would have been nice if it hadn't made yesterday seem tame by comparison... :)

It was glassier and kept me really busy at Terramar riding one nice left after another.

I hope I can make it Friday, but not certain; where do you plan to go out? What kind of car are you driving? Let me know, so if I can make it I'll be able to spot you.

Soaking in salt water is very theraputic!

Oh, Did I mention that, as if things weren't already bad enough, the waves were shoulder to head high? :)

10-5-00

I've lately grown rather fond of parking near the steps and going in there... It is an easy paddle north to the Terramar point (out in front of The Yellow House) where the lefts are wonderful - plus the reef between the beach and the point offers really nice, long rights - plus there is often nice beach-break out in front of the steps even if nothing else is working.

When there is a big south swell, north of Terramar can be incredibly good... but for Friday I suspect that the concrete steps will be the right place to go.

I went with Lyss Murphey, Bob Rio, Pat King, and some other guys to Ponto at lunchtime today... It was killer shorebreak there, except out in front of the jetty - I rode several nice big ones there.

That is quite a heavy wave!

Well, let me know when you get to go out next...

10-09-00

Here is today's report....

Looked kinda small, but glassy... so I went out at Terramar....

Here are a few words to describe it...

Terramawonderful, Terramaglassy, Terramabeautiful, Terramafabulous, Terramaexquisite, Terramaexiting, ... ... ...

But you get the idea! One great left after another!

10-10-00

I thought I'd forward you today's aggregate surf report from a bunch of crazies who went out... (start reading at the bottom).

Thanks,

By the way, last week (Thursday?) after you guys were gone I was out hanging with "the big boys" out from the stone jettys... it was pretty big out there, and a really "heavy" wave. I caught a couple of good rights. With a wave that heavy you have to watch out because if you wind up under it instead of on top of it you get pretty well crunched. :(

I'm really glad to see you guys "going for it" these days. I think you need a better spot, though... Terramar is pretty nice - you just have to BYOW (bring your own water) for cleaning up afterward.

Actually, Ponto used to be great right out in front of the shower house - I used to boogie there almost every day. I don't know what it is like now on a good day, but last Thursday I would characterize as "killer shorebreak" - I got a couple of tiny rides while I was hanging out with you guys... but decided that I didn't want to break my neck, and so I moved back to the jettys...

From: Lyss

RE: Surf Condition - normal for a windy day

Well Dann, if anybody deserves a great day surfing its you. You've put your time in and "you the man" as far as I'm concerned.

As far as today's nasty conditions go - to paraphrase the fishermen - a nasty day boogie boarding beats a great day at the office!

-Lyss

From: Dann Tuesday, October 10, 2000 1:19 PM To: Lyss

Subject: RE: Surf Condition - Abnormal

Actually, I thought the surf was pretty normal for a windy day... :)

I went out and got bounced around pretty good, got a few rides anyhow.

I'm glad to hear that I'm no longer the lone soul who goes out on a nasty day like this. :)

Yesterday was the day, however... glassy smooth, beautiful, one great left after another at Terramar! Eat your heart out!

-Dann

From: Lyss

Subject: Surf Condition - Abnormal

The surf today was like inside a washing machine on the Wash cycle. Ravut and I got beat up trying to get out into the 6-7 ft waves which seemed to come from two directions at 5 second intervals. We finally settled for some good clean foam and got a few rides.

Lyss

10-12-00

> How is the surf today?

It was OK - it has been pretty nice all week (except Tuesday). Today the tide was a little high, so that made it a little hard to find the right wave. Then as the tide dropped it got more crowded, and so I missed waves I could have easily gotten because someone else was already on them.

> Must be picking up because my husband took his board with him. My husband has such a great job. His boss is in New York.

>His office consists of him and his friend. They've both decided that their office will have surf holidays, and "surf" meetings! And if he keeps up his commission, he'll be making six figures. He works hard though so he deserves it all.

Wow, that's great! My fantasy work environment is a lab/workshop overlooking Terramar or some other really nice break, with big picture windows. Work would consist of all very interesting fun projects, and of course when the surf was up, work would be set aside for a while for more important things. :) :) :) (: (: (: Of course, I can't complain about the arrangement I have right now. :)

> I didn't know Lyss surfs. His email reminds me of when I first started surfing with my girlfriend. We called ourselves the "sh*tty" condition surfers because we went out in all conditions. We always had fun though.

Yah, Lyss has been going out twice a week with a bodyboard. He has a long board but hasn't started using it yet - he bought it from Gary Kozlow. I go out in all conditions - Tuesday was one of those days, no one out there except me.

> Is the water still warm? I'm thinking about maybe going out tomorrow around 11:30. No meetings so far!

Water is cooling off - not too bad yet, I think it is mid-60ish. And now I'm bummed 'cause I probably can't make it tomorrow. I hope we can manage to both get there before the water gets too cool for you! Anyway, have a great time tomorrow. If something changes and I can make it I'll look for you.

Cheers!

10-13-00

I was at Terramar today... I looked high and low, and no sign of you! Did you get "meeting'd" again?

I got there at 11:30 and went down the steps about 11:45. There were a few OK waves (only a couple of other people were out there - and they got most of the good waves). Then it got progressively more scrappy as the tide got really low.

All in all, I'd say you didn't miss too much (aside from my sterling company :)

Here's hoping you'll get out surfing again sometime!

10-17-00

>Another missed opportunity!

Yup!

>I had to take my son in to get his ear checked from a recent ear infection.

I'm happy to hear your son's ear is OK...

>Is the water getting colder?

Yah, it's a little cooler - I don't really believe 61 degrees, though. Of course, yesterday I surfed at warm water jetty where it was too warm.. Nice steep takeoffs, fun (but mostly short) rides. Today I surfed the usual spot (by the steps south of Terramar). It was smaller, but I was surprised by some sets and had fun anyway.

>I better get out there soon or else.

I should say so! Or else you might turn into a pumpkin! To me, a day without surf is like a day without sunshine!

Hope to see you out there soon.

10-25-00

> A Happy 50th Birthday to you! Sounds like you got some great presents.

Thanks! Yes, I surely did have a fine birthday.

> Feels like fall and winter are approaching. If the water temp drops below 62 or so, I may have to sit out the rest of the year. I don't surf enough to buy another full suit. My current one is pretty tight on me. I've only worn it about a handful of times! My husband said the water is about 64 so I'd be okay with a spring suit for now. We'll see...

The water warmed up quite a bit, and was very nice on Monday... I hope that holds for a while!

> How's Tyco? Are things any better or worse?

It's too early to tell, but my guess from what I've seen and heard so far is that it may get worse before it gets better.

>Hope to see you in the water.

Me too! In a few weeks, God willing. I'm already suffering withdrawal symptoms... :)

Take care!

12-4-00

Have you been out boogieboarding lately? The surf was great (big!) on Friday, I had a blast.

12-18-00

Meanwhile, the surf was nice this morning - a mild Santa Ana wind blowing with an occasional overhead set. I caught several good waves, including two nice-sized gradual lefts that took me a long way, and then when it was time to leave, a big right that took me almost all the way to the beach. I was surfing out in front of the giant Victorian house at the cliffs south of Terramar.

Say, don't you miss catching waves? When was the last time you were out? I keep hoping these surf reports will make you jealous and get you out in the water... :)

Well, take care! Merry Christmas to you both and to your families!

1-16-01

One thing that goes a long ways toward helping me keep my sanity is surfing, most mornings. I was out this morning and had a wonderfull session! You can see pics of me (that Pat King took) in the Sports section of my website, found at http://creator.cjb.net .

2-21-01

The surf was very nice today and very non-threatening... I had a nice time.

3-2-01

Big rockin` left at warm water jetty.

3-5-01

Left my trunks at home! :(

3-6-01

Met kyaker Vince.