Riding waves, as every surfer knows, is one of the purest forms of joy on earth. Those who have never surfed simply do not - no, cannot - understand. Those who have know that riding the waves is a real treasure.

Properly viewed, the ocean (along with everything else) is a gift to us from God himself. Who else could design a playground that constantly changes? Every wave is different. Every day is a new challenge, a new opportunity to learn.

Surf’s up, dudes! See you at the break in the morning!