It takes me three attempts to get outside. When I finally do get out, I take one look around, and say to myself, "Are you crazy? What in the world are you doing out here?" Then I take the first wave in.

Screwing up my courage, I try again and manage to get outside a couple more times. However, it is the same as before – taking what I can get, I’m glad to get in with my life.

I stand on the shore and watch the big boys way out off the point of the Del Mar Beach jetty on the north side of Oceanside harbor. The waves are easily triple overhead. I see one brave soul take off on a big one. He looks like a midget standing near the crest and streaking left along a massive shoulder. Wow!

Two other times during that swell I manage to get out, once at Grand View, once at Terramar. Of the three places, Terramar is the best. The contour of the shoreline breaks up the incoming waves so it is possible to paddle out by zigzagging between peaks without getting nailed.

Do I get the best wave of my life? No, not really. I have stretched my limits, and am thankful that I am not hurt. Do I have a memorable good time? You can count on it.